Gutter FAQ

Yes. We serve the Portland, OR metro and Clark County, WA, with the same pricing on both sides of the Columbia River.

Text photos of the front and back of the house, or send your address, to 503-123-4567. We measure the roofline and text back a flat price.

Yes. We reseal leaks, re-hang sagging gutters, correct slope, and replace downspouts and elbows, often during the same visit as a cleaning.

Yes. We install 5-inch and 6-inch seamless aluminum gutters, half-round gutters, and gutter guards across Portland and Vancouver.

Neighbors on the same street who book the same day each save 15%. We also clean gutters for a few seniors and neighbors in hardship each season through our neighbor help program.

Yes, in normal rain. We reschedule for high wind, ice or lightning.

You receive an invoice by text or email after the job and can pay by card or other common methods. No payment is taken before the work is done.

Yes. Our gutter guides library covers cleaning, repairs, sizing, materials, guards, drainage and ladder safety for Northwest homes.

They need taller ladders, more setup per wall and more time moving equipment safely, so the same footage takes longer.

Gutters packed solid or growing plants take longer. If photos show heavy buildup, that is reflected in the flat price before you book, never added afterward.

Guards typically run $9–$26 per linear foot installed, including the pre-installation cleaning.

No separate trip fee anywhere in our service area. The quoted price is the total.

Yes. Detached garages, sheds and shops are a small add-on when cleaned during the same visit.

Published starting prices stay the same year-round. Booking early simply secures a spot during the November rush.

Send your address or photos through the free quote form or text 503-123-4567. Most quotes are returned within an hour during business hours.

Send us a written quote and we will review it. Make sure it includes downspout flushing, haul-away and photos so you are comparing the same job.

Most single-story homes in the Portland–Vancouver metro start at $149 and most two-story homes start at $229. Price depends on linear footage, roof pitch, height and how packed the gutters are. Send photos or your address and we confirm a flat price before we come out.

Twice a year for most homes: once in late fall after the leaves drop and once in late spring after fir pollen, cones and maple seeds. Homes under tall firs or with no gutter guards often need a third cleaning in mid-winter.

No. As long as we can reach every side of the house and the gates are unlocked, we can clean while you are at work. You get photos and an invoice by text when we are done.

Yes, in normal Portland drizzle and rain. Rain actually helps us confirm the downspouts flow. We reschedule for wind, ice or lightning because ladder safety comes first.

It is bagged and hauled away. We do not leave piles on your lawn or blow it into the neighbor’s yard.

Yes. Most guard systems still need the top surface cleared and the gutter flushed every year or two. We remove and reinstall screen-style guards as needed.

Most single-story homes take 45 to 90 minutes. Two-story homes usually take 1.5 to 3 hours depending on footage, roof pitch and how packed the gutters are.

Hand removal of all debris, every downspout flushed and flow-tested, loose debris cleared from the roof edge and valleys, debris bagged and hauled away, a check of hangers, seams and slope, and before-and-after photos.

Late November through mid-December, after most maples and oaks have dropped their leaves, and again in late spring after fir pollen, cones and maple seeds fall.

Yes. Overflowing gutters soak fascia boards, stain siding, wet the soil along the foundation, and can push water into crawlspaces and basements. Standing water also adds weight that pulls gutters loose.

Yes. We bring ladders and stabilizers sized for two- and three-story homes and steep roofs. Three-story homes are priced from photos.

Only when it is safe and necessary, such as clearing a valley or a section we cannot reach from a ladder. We do not walk wet moss-covered roofs or steep pitches.

Yes. Add garages, shops, sheds and covered patios to the same visit for a small add-on price instead of a separate trip.

We photograph it and text you a fixed price. Small fixes like resealing a corner can often be done the same visit if you approve. Nothing is added without your OK.

Yes. A seasonal plan books your fall and spring cleanings at a locked price and reserves your spot before the November rush.

Even without trees, roof granules, wind-blown debris, pollen and moss build up. Most homes without trees still need a cleaning at least once a year.

Most single-issue repairs like resealing a corner, re-hanging a sagging run or replacing an elbow start at $125. Multiple repairs on the same visit are bundled. You get the price before we start.

Repair when the problems are isolated to a few seams or sections. Replace when the gutters are rusted through, separating at many points, or undersized for your roof. We show you photos and give you both numbers when it is close.

Yes. Sealants we use cure in cool, damp weather, and winter is when leaks are easiest to find. We avoid working on icy days.

We can replace short rotted fascia sections behind a gutter as part of the repair. Larger rot jobs are quoted separately.

Yes, including on older Portland homes with half-round profiles. Some copper repairs need soldering and are quoted after a photo review.

Corners and end caps are joined with sealant that breaks down over years of expansion, contraction and standing water. Resealing or replacing the corner piece usually fixes it.

Hangers pull loose from soft or rotted fascia, screws back out, or old spike-and-ferrule fasteners fail. Heavy wet debris and ice make it worse. We re-hang the run with hidden hangers screwed into solid wood.

Usually the gutter has pulled away from the fascia, the drip edge is missing, or the gutter is mounted too low. Water then runs behind the gutter and down the fascia and siding.

We check the slope with water and a level, then reset the hangers so the run falls toward the downspout. Most gutters need about a quarter inch of drop for every 10 feet.

Small holes can be patched with flashing and sealant. Larger rust-through areas are better fixed by replacing that section.

A properly resealed seam typically lasts several years. Re-hanging with hidden hangers into solid wood is a long-term fix. Patches on badly rusted gutters are short-term.

Yes. We fix gutters bent by falling branches, wind or ice and can document damage with photos for insurance.

We match profile, size and color as closely as available stock allows. Older or discontinued colors may be close rather than exact.

Yes. Repairs carry a workmanship warranty. Ask for the terms with your quote, since they depend on the condition of the existing gutters.

Usually yes. Leaks, sags and missing downspouts are common inspection findings, and fixing them beforehand is inexpensive compared with renegotiating.

Most Portland–Vancouver homes land between $12 and $22 per linear foot installed, including downspouts and haul-away. A typical single-story ranch is often 120–160 feet; two-story homes run more. We give a written price after measuring.

5-inch handles most single-story homes with average roof pitch. 6-inch holds about 40% more water and is the better choice for steep roofs, large roof planes, valleys that concentrate water, and homes under heavy trees.

Most homes are done in one day. Large or complex rooflines can take two.

Aluminum coil comes in dozens of baked-enamel colors. We bring samples so you can match trim, fascia or roofing.

Yes, and it is the cheapest time to do it since the gutters are already open and new.

Gutters formed on-site from a coil of aluminum and cut to the exact length of each wall, so there are no joints along the run. Joints only exist at corners and downspouts.

Seamless aluminum is the best value for most homes: it does not rust, it is light, and it comes in many colors. Copper lasts longest but costs much more. Steel can rust in our wet climate.

A common rule is one downspout for every 30 to 40 feet of gutter, with more on steep roofs, large roof planes and where valleys concentrate water.

Standard is 2x3 inches. 3x4 downspouts move roughly twice the water and pair well with 6-inch gutters on large or steep roofs.

The most common modern profile. It has a flat back and decorative front that looks like crown molding, and it holds more water than a half-round gutter of the same width.

Yes. Half-round gutters suit older Portland homes and Craftsman styles and are available in aluminum and copper.

Brackets inside the gutter that screw through into the fascia or rafter tails. They are stronger and cleaner-looking than old spike-and-ferrule fasteners.

Gutter installation on a single-family home generally does not need a permit in Portland-area cities. Changes to storm drain connections can have rules, so we check before rerouting drainage.

Yes. We measure, size the system and place downspouts where the water can drain away from the foundation.

Typically 20 years or more with regular cleaning and properly secured hangers.

For homes under firs, pines or heavy maples, a good micro-mesh guard usually pays for itself within a few years of reduced cleanings. For homes with few trees nearby, twice-a-year cleaning is often cheaper. We will tell you which camp you are in.

Stainless micro-mesh does. Most plastic screens and foam inserts do not, which is why many Portland homeowners are disappointed with big-box guards.

No guard is zero maintenance. Expect to brush off the top surface and flush the gutters every one to two years, depending on tree cover. Anyone promising never is overselling.

Typical installed pricing runs $9–$26 per linear foot depending on the product and roof access. That includes the pre-installation cleaning.

Properly installed guards do not cause ice dams; attic insulation and ventilation do. In the rare Portland ice storm, guards can hold ice at the edge, so we avoid designs that trap snow on low-pitch roofs.

Stainless steel micro-mesh. Its openings are small enough to stop fir and pine needles while letting water through.

Good micro-mesh handles typical Northwest rain well. On very steep roofs, extreme downpours can overshoot some designs, which is why we match the guard to roof pitch.

Some guards slide under the first row of shingles, which certain manufacturers restrict. Front-lip and fascia-mounted designs avoid lifting shingles.

Yes, if the gutters are in good shape and properly pitched. We clean, flush and fix them first so the guards are not sealing in problems.

Stainless micro-mesh and aluminum guards commonly last 15 to 20 years or more. Plastic screens and foam inserts often need replacing within a few years.

Rigid metal guards keep birds and rodents from nesting in gutters. Flimsy plastic screens can be pushed aside.

Brush or blow off the top surface every one to two years, more often under heavy conifers, and flush the gutters occasionally to clear fine sediment.

Not in the Northwest. Needles and seeds sit on top, moss grows into the foam, and the inserts hold water against the gutter.

Guards keep moss chunks out of the gutter, but they do not stop moss growing on the roof. Treat the roof so moss does not cover the guard.

Snap-in screens are a DIY project on a single-story home. Micro-mesh systems need precise fastening to the gutter lip and are best installed with a clean, pitched gutter.

We clear the accessible portion and test flow. Collapsed or root-filled underground lines may need a drain specialist; we tell you what we find and can install above-ground extensions in the meantime.

Rules vary by city. Portland has had a downspout disconnection program and some properties are required to stay connected. Ask us and we will point you to the right city guidance before rerouting.

At least three to five feet from the foundation, onto ground that slopes away from the house.

Yes. Long runs or steep roofs often need an extra downspout to keep up with Northwest rain, and it is usually an inexpensive fix for chronic overflow.

Water overflows at one corner of the gutter, little or no water comes out the bottom during rain, or you hear gurgling at the elbow. Tapping the downspout may sound dull where debris is packed.

At the top outlet where the gutter drains, and at the first elbow below it. Fir cones and packed needles are the usual culprits in the Portland area.

Underground lines look clean but can clog with roots and sediment and are hard to inspect. Above-ground extensions are easier to maintain. If you have underground lines, test them each fall.

A section of pipe or flexible tubing attached to the bottom elbow that carries water several feet away from the foundation.

Splash blocks help on ground that already slopes away from the house. On flat or back-sloping lots, a longer extension or rerouting works better.

Yes. We can relocate or add a downspout to send water where the yard drains best.

Short or missing downspout extensions, clogged underground lines, overflowing gutters and soil that slopes toward the house are the common causes.

Every gutter cleaning, and again after the first big fall storm. We flush every downspout on every visit.

Yes. A clogged downspout overflows at the gutter and dumps water right at the foundation, which is one of the most common causes of wet crawlspaces in the Northwest.

No. Pressure washing strips the protective granules from asphalt shingles and can void the manufacturer warranty. We use hand tools, soft brushes and treatment.

Late summer through fall, before the heavy rains, or any dry window in winter and spring. Treatment works best when it has a dry day to set.

Typically one to two years on shaded roofs. Zinc strips at the ridge extend that.

We use products labeled for roof use, apply them per the label and protect beds below. Tell us about ponds, edible gardens or pets and we adjust.

Long wet seasons, mild temperatures and shade from tall trees give moss ideal conditions, especially on north-facing roof planes.

Yes. Moss holds moisture against shingles, lifts their edges and can let wind-driven rain get underneath. It also sheds into gutters and clogs them.

You can brush moss off gently from a stable position, but scraping or pressure washing damages shingles, and wet mossy roofs are slippery. Many homeowners hire it out for safety.

Rain washes small amounts of zinc down the roof from strips installed near the ridge, which helps slow moss regrowth below them.

Shaded roofs often need treatment every one to two years. Sunny roofs may go longer.

It removes the green growth, but stains and granule wear on older shingles remain. Expect a cleaner roof, not a new one.

No, but we clean the gutters as part of every moss removal job since the debris ends up there.

We remove moss from asphalt shingle, metal and some tile roofs. Fragile tile, slate and cedar shake roofs are quoted after photo review.

Seamless aluminum typically lasts 20 years or more with cleaning. Galvanized steel often rusts out sooner in our wet climate. Copper can last decades.

After, or at the same time. Roofers often need to remove gutters to install drip edge, so coordinating saves you money.

Yes. We match profile and color as closely as available coil allows.

Gutter replacement on a single-family home generally does not require a permit in Portland-area cities, but rerouting drainage to a storm system can have rules. We check before changing drainage.

Most Portland–Vancouver homes run $12–$22 per linear foot installed, including removal of the old gutters and new downspouts. Fascia repair is quoted separately if needed.

We remove them and haul them away for recycling. Aluminum and steel gutters are recyclable.

Most homes are completed in one day.

If your current gutters overflow even when clean, or your roof is steep or large, 6-inch gutters with 3x4 downspouts usually solve it.

Yes. When we remove old gutters we check the fascia and quote any rotted sections before installing the new system.

Yes. Seamless aluminum comes in many colors, so replacement is a good time to match new paint or trim.

If the gutters are leaking, rusted or sagging, replacing them removes a common inspection issue and improves curb appeal.

Yes. Most commercial clients choose a two or three visit annual plan with locked pricing.

Yes, naming your property or management company as certificate holder on request.

We handle up to three stories with ladders. Taller buildings are quoted with lift access.

We provide a notice template and arrival window so you can share it with residents a few days ahead.

Most properties need two cleanings a year. Buildings under heavy trees or with flat-roof scuppers and internal drains may need quarterly service.

Yes, including garden-style apartments and townhome communities up to three stories, with photo reports by building.

Yes. We schedule around business hours and provide arrival windows and notice templates for residents.

Yes, on low-slope roofs where they are safely accessible. We clear debris from scuppers, conductor heads and the tops of roof drains.

By building or by unit, based on footage and height. Multi-building contracts receive volume pricing.

Yes. Each visit produces a photo report with any repair findings and prices so boards can approve work quickly.

Blowers work on dry leaves but scatter debris and struggle with wet, packed conifer needles common in the Northwest. Hand scooping plus a hose flush is more thorough.

Only on low-pitch, dry roofs with good footing. Leaning over the edge is risky, and wet moss is slippery. A ladder with a stabilizer is safer for most homeowners.

Water should run from the far end to the downspout without pooling and exit freely at the bottom of every downspout.

Gutter debris is yard waste and can usually go in your yard-debris cart or compost if it is not mixed with roof granules or trash.

A pressure washer wand can blast loose debris but can also dent thin aluminum and spray water behind siding. A hose and snake are gentler.

Try snaking from the downspout opening or the outlet end. Roots and collapsed pipe may need a drain specialist. An above-ground extension is a quick workaround.

At every gutter cleaning, and after the first big fall storm.

The late-fall cleaning with every downspout flushed, done before the heaviest winter rain.

Yes. Wind and ice can loosen hangers and fill gutters quickly. A quick look from the ground after big storms catches problems early.

They can push loose debris along a straight run but struggle with corners, hangers and packed wet needles.

Telescoping tools rarely reach second-story gutters effectively. That is where professional service is worth it.

Yes. Partially clogged gutters may only overflow in heavy rain, while standing water inside them quietly rusts seams and adds weight.

That corner usually has a clogged downspout or is the low point where water collects because the slope is off.

Some gutter sealants are rated for cool, damp application, but bonding is always better on dry metal. Check the product label for temperature limits.

Use a sealant made for gutters. General-purpose caulks may not handle constant water and temperature movement.

Simple reseals are typically a modest service call, and are cheaper when combined with a cleaning visit.

Every 24 inches is standard. Under heavy conifers or in ice-prone areas like the Gorge, 18 inches adds strength.

Usually yes, if the gutter itself is not bent or rusted and the fascia is solid.

Shallow puddles after rain encourage rust, mosquitoes and debris buildup, and add weight. Correcting the slope is a simple fix.

Usually not. A hose test is the reliable way to check.

Usually the gutters or downspouts are undersized for the roof, or a valley concentrates water at one corner.

Guards stop clogs, but they cannot fix undersized gutters or bad slope.

Only if the fascia is solid. Screws into rotted wood will pull out again within a season.

Sudden storm damage may be covered, but damage from wear or lack of maintenance usually is not. Check your policy and document storm damage with photos.

For steep or large roofs and homes under trees, yes. The price difference per foot is small compared with the cost of overflow damage.

Yes. Some homes use 6-inch only on the sides that collect the most water, such as below valleys.

On most two-story homes they look proportional. On small single-story homes, 5-inch usually looks better and performs fine.

Copper and zinc can last 50 years or more. Seamless aluminum is the practical choice for most budgets at 20 years or more.

Thicker-gauge aluminum with hidden hangers every 24 inches handles normal loads. Never lean a ladder directly on any gutter.

Yes, when sized up (a 6-inch half-round) and paired with enough downspouts.

The smooth rounded bottom flushes debris a bit more easily, but they still need regular cleaning under trees.

None. Even the best micro-mesh needs its surface brushed or blown off every one to two years under trees.

Most do, but on very steep pitches some surface-tension designs let water overshoot in heavy rain. Micro-mesh angled to the roof works well.

Yes. A new outlet is cut into the gutter and a downspout added, usually a quick, inexpensive job.

Yes. A 3x4 downspout passes fir cones and debris that would jam a 2x3.

Prices are similar year-round, but scheduling is easier in dry months and you avoid working around storms.

After, or at the same time, so the roofer can install drip edge properly and the gutters are not damaged.

At least three to five feet, onto ground that slopes away from the foundation.

Gutters are the first line of defense, but grading, extensions and sometimes crawlspace drainage are also needed.

They work when maintained, but they clog and collapse over time. Test them every fall by running a hose into each one.

Yes for asphalt shingles. It strips protective granules and can void warranties.

Late summer and early fall are ideal, before the heavy rains, with dry days for treatment to work.

They keep gutters clear so ice has less to grip, but ice can still form on top. Properly fastened gutters matter more.

Heat cable is rarely needed in the Portland area. If ice dams are a recurring problem, have attic insulation and ventilation checked first.

Collecting rooftop rainwater for household use like watering gardens is generally allowed in both states. Check local codes for overflow routing.

Yes. We can fit a diverter and extension to your downspout so overflow drains properly.

Often a 28- to 32-foot extension ladder, depending on eave height and setback. Many homeowners find this is where hiring out makes sense.

Avoid it. A second person can steady the ladder, hand up tools and call for help if needed.

Requirements vary by the work performed. Repair and installation are construction work that generally requires an Oregon CCB license or Washington L&I registration. When in doubt, hire a licensed company.

Compare what is included. A low price that skips downspouts, haul-away or photos is not the same job.